The dust hangs heavy over Kandahar. Eight years into the NATO invasion and locals maintain that not much has changed here. Drugs, guns and militancy still flow freely through this semi-autonomous “tribal” belt of desert, dust and sandstone that span the troubled borderlands with neighbouring Pakistan. Its inhabitants—nearly one million strong—are mainly Pashtun with a smattering of Baloch, Brahui, Tajik and Hazara. Today, the capital city of the same name is what some describe as the ‘wild east’, a jihadist Hole-in-the-Wall of 110,000 residents, some of whom, Coalition forces maintain, participate in development projects by day and insurgency by night. A sprawling town of concrete and mud punctuated by the occasional mall and RPG-pocked government building, it is also home to a proliferation of hulking bunker-like mansions distinguished as much by bad taste as the battle-hardened guards that bristle every time anyone strays too close. Concertina wire and kitsch: The transnational aesthetic of those who would enrich themselves with ill-gotten gains.